In Search of Bin Laden - October 2001

It's a terrific time to travel!

My older brother (Mike) and I decided to kick-out to South East Asia - despite the terrorism. The security checks were more intensive and everyone was generally more nervous than usual, but the plane was empty and the fares were fairly cheap (round trip Honolulu / Bangkok: $700 on NorthWest.)

This was not my first visit to Thailand. Having lived in Japan for 7 years, I've had plenty opportunity to explore this part of the world. For my brother, though, it was a first...so I enjoyed watching him discover the joys of backpacking through Asia on a shoestring. By the way, if you're interested in learning more about Thailand, check out www.chopsticks.net/stickman. Written by an expat who's been in Thailand for several years now, "the stickman guide" is offers excellent insight into living, working and traveling.

Official Name: Kingdom of Thailand
Form of Government: Constitutional Monarchy
Capital: Bangkok
Currency: Thai Baht (US$1 = 44 B)
Population: 61 million. 80% rural, 20% urban
Average per capita income: US$3100

We arrived via Tokyo...If you're stuck in Tokyo airport, be sure to check out the main concourse. You can access your email, rent rooms for sleeping, take a shower, and eat good food.

No special visa is needed for US Citizens. Customs will grant you a 30-day stay when you arrive...Avoid the high-priced taxi limo services touted by the group of people outside baggage claim. Just walk ignore all those people and walk straight outside the airport, where you can catch a taxi for 300B, including 50B for the expressway.

By the way, you can change money at the airport. The banks are located outside the baggage claim area. The are open late (we were there at midnight!) and the rates are good.

We stayed at the Nana Hotel (1000B per night for 2 beds, hot shower, A/C, cable TV), located just across the street from the famous Nana Plaza.. Most Backpackers opt for Khaosan Rd. in Banglamphu. My brother jokingly described Nana Hotel as a "whore house." I think that's pretty accurate...Note: If you're arriving late, be sure you have reservations. Online reservations are fine. Nana Hotel has 341 rooms and they usually sell out early!

While in Bangkok, "The City of Angels", we rented a river taxi (1200B total for just the two of us) and took a 3 hr tour of the city. I highly recommend it.

Thai fighting is held at 2 different stadiums. Check around for details. Ringside seats: 1000B.

Bangkok is a nice hopping point for visiting other countries. We originally wanted to skip over to Viet Nam, but we didn't want to sit around Bangkok for 5 working days to process the visa...so we elected to go to Cambodia, which grants visas at the airport for $20. Note: Bring 2 passport photos or pay a 100B fine in Cambodia.

Roundtrip Bangkok - Phenom Penh of Bangkok Air: 6600B (about $150). Again, you can change money at the airport (US$1 = 3900 Riel) and the cheapest taxi to town is a scooter for about $1. Find a driver and scooter outside the main gate of the airport. Otherwise, it's $7 for a ride into town.

Official Name: Kingdom of Cambodia
Form of Government: Multiparty democracy under constitutional monarchy
Capital: Phnom Penh
Climate: Rainy season from May-Nov.
Population: 11.6 million. rural 80%, urban 20%
Average Income per Capita: US$60 ($5 per month!)
Major Exports: Timber, rice, soybeans

The people is Phenom Penh are nice but not friendly. Maybe it's an artifact of decades of war, but the people in this city seem indifferent - kind of unsettling. We didn't go out after dark...

From Phenom Penh, we took a speed boat up the Mekong (4 hrs) to Siem Reap, where the Angkor Wat is located. We found the people up north to be remarkably different than the residents of Phenom Penh; they seem happier. The city itself is also more charming - with its tree lined boulevards.

In both cities, we stayed in guest houses. Drivers typically offer to bring you for free to the ones they are representing. Don't expect to pay more than $10 for an air conditioned room with own bathroom and hot running water.

Rent a scooter and driver for $6 a day, leave about 8am in the morning and spend the day exploring Angkor Wat. Admission is $20 for the day. You'll need water, plenty of film, comfortable climbing shoes and a good picture guide book.

If you're in Siem Reap, don't miss the fried dumplings at the Beijing Restaurant, located next to the Vimean Thmei Hotel (opposite the Monorom Restaurant.) The owner is Sed Li, a master chef whom - if I were rich - I would readily bring to Hawaii and partner on a restaurant business...

Don't buy any gems or gold in Cambodia. The real deals have already been picked over by the pros. If you see something you like, buy it because it you like the LOOK of it, not because someone is telling you it's gold, saphire or ruby. Otherwise, you will be ripped off.

After Cambodia we returned to Thailand via Phenom Penh. If the airport weren't closed for repair, we would have prefered to have left from Siem Reap. After touching down in Bangkok, we caught another flight to Phuket (2270B on Thai Airways.) Pattong is the most popular beach on Phuket island. If you're into night life, then you'll enjoy this place. Pattong's beach is also very nice and flat and great for evening jogs.

If you've got the time, check out Koh Samui, an island off the eastern coast of Thailand. (3150B on Bangkok Air one-way Bangkok-Koh Samui.) You can get a clean, safe, beachside bungalow with bathroom/shower for 1000B. We stayed at Central resort (4500B), a five start resort on equal footing with the best resorts in Hawaii. Don't miss the 4:30 volleyball games on the beach every evening...or the full moon parties on the neighboring island!

Also, if you're into seafood and you're in Chaweng Beach area, go to Nakorn Restaurant (13/5 Moo 2 Bo Phut.) Their motto is "Food, Seafood, Drinks at Usual Prices." You won't be disappointed.

Aloha,
Kimo

 

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