If you take anything from this brief adventure make it this: You gotta see Cuba before it changes...Frozen in some kind of weird 1950s time warp, Cuba has the unshakable charm of a vibrant Latino culture and the dark but romantic history of unresolved conflict with the capitalist world, a.k.a. United States.

My arrival to this BIG country was just on the heels of Elian's rescue at sea. With him still in the USA and my jetting into Havana from Miami, it looked like really poor timing on my part - although I was unwilling to schedule this much anticipated trip for a 'better' time.

The United States government will not permit US citizens to fly directly to Cuba from the United Sates. This means you must first fly to Jamaica or Mexico, for example, purchase a round trip ticket in that country and then take a quick hop into Cuba. Jamaican Air is has the system wired and the pricing is not too bad ($200 US.) Moreover, no serious planning is required...just be sure you can catch a connecting flight to Havana because some days there is only one flight.

I dropped into Havana with only a backpack, a passport, lots of one dollar bills, and a willingness to "sponge" survival Spanish from some hard copies off the internet. When I arrived at customs, I was the only person from the United States. There were guns and lots of construction but none of the edginess often settles in when something violent is about to happen.

After clearing customs, I walked outside the airport's entrance and caught a cab: a beautiful '58 Chevy! The driver was welcoming and confident but not ingratiating. I gave him an address of an apartment travelers can rent as we were off - about 30 minutes out and $10 (including tip) from downtown Havana...

If you're seriously considering a trip to Cuba, then go! You don't need me to tell you what to expect. Some words of wisdom:

Everyone trades in US dollars (no coins). Bring small gifts, like perfume or cologne, which you can give to the wonderful people you will inevitably meet. Be eager to use Spanish, even if you don't know how. Your willingness will go a long way toward making friends. Don't mess with the guys carrying guns. Leave all the subversive politics at home. People do not like to openly debate politics. Be prepared for poverty...But be careful about feeling/showing pity. Don't bring any goods back. A battalion of US Immigration is waiting for you.